By motorcycle along the Alta Via del Sale: discover the route between Liguria and Piedmont

The Alta Via del Sale is considered by many motorcycle and trekking enthusiasts to be the true “Holy Grail” of routes through Liguria. This ancient route, once used to transport salt, winds through breathtaking landscapes and unspoiled valleys, embracing two of Italy's most fascinating regions-Liguria and Piedmont. For a short stretch, the boundless route also enters French territory, offering a unique experience that combines nature, history and adventure.

 

Whether one decides to travel the Via del Sale by motorcycle, on foot or by mountain bike, the route promises an emotionally rich journey through evocative alpine landscapes and picturesque ancient villages, providing an authentic look at an often little-known but incredibly fascinating stretch of Italy.

Why it's called the Via del Sale and what it was used for[ back to menu ]

The Via del Sale owes its name to the precious mineral that was transported along these ancient routes by merchants and muleteers. In the past, salt was an extremely important commodity, not only for flavoring food but especially for food preservation. The routes of the Salt Routes connected the Po Valley and inland valleys with the Ligurian Sea, allowing traders to transport sea salt from coastal salt pans to the interior of northern Italy.

These routes were crucial to the economy of the regions they crossed, as salt, along with other goods such as oil, cheese, and grain, was traded in local markets. Caravans traveled these impervious roads for days, facing altitude differences and harsh weather conditions to bring salt from the sea to urban and agricultural centers in the Alps and inland Piedmont.

Where the Via del Sale is located: the map and the route[ back to menu ]

The Via del Sale is an ancient route connecting Liguria and Piedmont, also crossing a short section of French territory. The main route of the Alta Via del Sale runs from the mountains of Limone Piemonte, in the province of Cuneo, to the Ligurian coast, reaching Ventimiglia.

This route is about 40 kilometers long, and allows visitors to admire landscapes that vary from high Alpine peaks to breathtaking views of the Ligurian Sea. The route is set within protected areas of great environmental value, such as the Natural Park of the Maritime Alps, the Regional Natural Park of the Ligurian Alps, and the Parc National du Mercantour. All of these parks preserve an extraordinary biodiversity, with extensive highland pastures, dolomitic rocks and karst phenomena, making the itinerary particularly fascinating for nature and history lovers.Are you looking for accommodation in the Riviera Ligure di Ponente to complete your vacation? Come visit us at our farmhouse in Diano Marina!

 

For those wishing to explore the Via del Sale, detailed maps and mapping can be consulted, indicating the different stages, viewpoints, and detours accessible by motorcycle, foot, or mountain bike.

The route is quite well marked and suitable for those seeking an adventure among unique natural scenery dotted with ancient fortifications and unspoiled landscapes.

Altitude and access conditions[ back to menu ]

The Alta Via del Sale is a mountain trail that runs at an altitude between 1,700 and 2,200 meters above sea level. This route is popular with adventure and off-road enthusiasts, not only because of its beauty, but also because of its special access conditions.

 

The road is only open for a limited period of the year, from mid-June to mid-October, and access requires reservations, with availability adjusted according to the starting point, Limone Piemonte or Monesi.

Access is restricted for motor vehicles: only 80 cars and 140 motorcycles or quads are allowed per day, while there are no restrictions for those traveling the route by bicycle or e-bike.

 

During the open period, the route is closed for two days a week, making it even more important to plan your visit carefully. I recommend avoiding weekends, when the road is busiest, as the presence of vehicles traveling in the opposite direction may require frequent stops to allow passage, increasing the risk of accidents along exposed sections with precipices on either side.

Practical tips for tackling the Salt Road[ back to menu ]

Tackling the Via del Sale is not for everyone. The trail conditions require appropriate means and careful preparation.

By motorcycle[ back to menu ]

For those who decide to travel it by motorcycle, the ideal is an enduro bike with knobbly wheels, which provide better grip on uneven sections and on an unpaved dirt road with many boulders. The use of scooters or road bikes is highly discouraged because of the technical difficulties of the trail.

To fully admire the scenery, take photographs and breathe the pure air of the Alta Via del Sale, the enduro bike is undoubtedly the ideal choice. However, not everyone is an expert in this type of riding or an off-road enthusiast, so it is essential to have a minimum of training or be a bit of a daredevil. Riding on this track requires special attention: I advise you to avoid hard acceleration and braking, maintain a constant speed and focus on the road at all times.

What is the best bike for tackling the Salt Road?[ back to menu ]

The ideal bike for tackling the Salt Route is undoubtedly an enduro bike, preferably lightweight, maneuverable and equipped with knobbly wheels that offer good grip on the rough, unpaved terrain typical of this route.

Models such as the Royal Enfield Himalayan are especially good for beginners because of their versatility, reliability and ease of riding even on unpaved surfaces. In fact, enduro bikes are designed to cope with challenging conditions, such as cobblestones, gravel, and dirt road sections that characterize the Salt Trail.

Road bikes or scooters are obviously not recommended, as they lack the proper structure and suspension to deal with these difficulties.

Traveling with passengers is also not recommended, unless you are a really experienced driver, as the route requires total control of the vehicle without additional weight that could compromise safety.

By car[ back to menu ]

For those who want to take the route by car, it is necessary to have a 4x4 off-road vehicle and good driving experience on rough terrain, as there is very limited space to stop and maneuver, especially in the higher areas after the forested part.

E-bikes and MTBs[ back to menu ]

Using e-bikes could be a viable option, but not for the entire route; a stop in Limone Piemonte, which offers better facilities for cyclists than the Ligurian side, should be arranged.

How long does it take to ride the Via del Sale[ back to menu ]

The time it takes to travel the Via del Sale depends greatly on the means of transport chosen and physical preparedness. By motorcycle or car, the entire route can be completed in a day, with an average time of 5 to 7 hours, depending on road conditions and stops along the way. It is important to remember that speed should be moderate, especially to avoid accidents in the narrowest and most exposed places.

 

For those who choose to tackle the Salt Road on foot, the time required is significantly longer. The route can be divided into several stages, with a total duration of 2-3 days, depending on the level of training and pace of walking. Along the way there are several refuges or farmhouses to stop at.

When to walk the Salt Route [ back to menu ]

The best time to travel the Salt Road is during the summer months, from mid-June to mid-October, when the trail is open and weather conditions are most favorable.

Again, I remind you that the road is only accessible for a limited time and during these months there are also two days of weekly closures, so it is essential to plan your adventure in advance.

 

On weekends, the influx of vehicles increases significantly, making the route more complicated, especially in narrow sections with precipices. I therefore recommend, if possible, to choose weekdays.

Equipment needed to tackle the route by motorcycle[ back to menu ]

Tackling the route on a motorcycle also means equipping yourself with proper equipment:

• Enduro pants and jacket, possibly also a waterproof jacket, as the weather at high altitude can change abruptly.

• A backpack with packed lunch and at least 1.5 liters of water.

Although there are several restrictions and difficulties, the route is really worth it: every effort is rewarded by the uniqueness of the experience and the beauty of the landscape!

Motorcycle rental for the Via del Sale: tips, costs and information[ back to menu ]

To tackle the Via del Sale by motorcycle, I chose to rent a Royal Enfield Himalayan, a versatile enduro bike perfect for beginners, from Sud Est Rental Raid in Casanova Lerrone. This rental point is about 47 km from the entrance to the Salt Road and 30 km from the agriturismo where I stayed. The rental cost was 110 euros for the whole day, with pickup at 9:00 am and drop-off by 7:00 pm. You obviously need to have an A license to ride this 400 cc motorcycle.

Southeast Raid also offers the possibility of renting motorcycle clothing and helmet, in case you do not have the proper equipment.

What's more, for those who don't want to travel alone, they periodically organize guided rides with groups of 10-15 participants, to be booked in advance on their website.

High Salt Road

Booking tickets and access to the Salt Road[ back to menu ]

To gain access to the Salt Road, it is necessary to book tickets in advance, choosing the right site based on the point of departure.

For those who choose to depart from Monesi, reservations must be made through briga.info Instead, for those departing from Limone Piemonte, the site to use is viadelsale.bikesquare.eu.

I recommend making the reservation at least 10 days in advance, although in some cases 7 days may be enough, especially if you take into account weather conditions that may influence the choice of the best day to ride the trail.

After completing the reservation, you must bring the receipt with you and show it at the entrance station corresponding to the side you have chosen for access.

Alta Via del Sale central section of the route

What to see along the Salt Road: a description of the motorcycle route[ back to menu ]

The complete route of the Salt Road stretches for about 300 km, winding through mountain landscapes and ancient trade routes. Here is a description of the route I took by motorcycle.

Starting from Casanova Lerrone, our motorcycle adventure begins by heading toward Cesio, then taking the SS28 to Acquetico, a hamlet of Pieve di Teco. From here, we take a detour to Mendatica and continue to Monesi di Triora. Passing Monesi, you reach a fork in the road: going straight ahead you reach the entrance station of the Via del Sale, while turning left you climb to Monte Saccarello, where the Redentore, one of the most striking viewpoints of the route, is located.

The Redeemer on Mount Saccarello[ back to menu ]

Once I reached the junction, I decided to climb to the Redeemer, located at 2,164 meters on Mount Saccarello, the highest mountain in Liguria. This place, which symbolically represents the border between Liguria, Piedmont and France, allows you to admire from above the mountains that stretch as far as the eye can see: hard to believe you are still in Liguria!

The statue of Christ the Redeemer, commissioned by Pope Leo XIII in 1901 on the occasion of the Jubilee of 1900, is one of 21 installed on various Italian mountains during the same period. More details about the Redeemer and Mount Saccarello can be found here and here.

Shelters along the route[ back to menu ]

A few meters below the statue is the La Terza Refuge, a modern facility where you can stay overnight and enjoy typical dishes. Run by the historic pasta company Fratelli Porro di Nava, it is an excellent stopping point for travelers.

A little further down, there is the Sanremo Refuge, a more spartan option run by the Sanremo CAI, ideal for those seeking a more essential and authentic atmosphere.

The Batterie of Mount Saccarello[ back to menu ]

Next to the statue of the Redeemer, you can see a small building that was part of the Mount Saccarello Batteries. These military posts, used during World War II to defend the Italian border against France, are a historical testimony to the wartime tensions of the past.

From the entrance station to Col de la Celle Vieille: a wooded section[ back to menu ]

After my visit to Monte Saccarello, I headed quickly to the entrance station of the Via del Sale. The road to the entrance is well traveled, and once you arrive, you must stop to show your ticket to the volunteers present.

Once past the station, the route runs mostly through a forested area full of fir trees to the Col de la Celle Vieille. This section, while fascinating from a natural point of view, tends to obscure views of the surrounding mountains, making it somewhat monotonous for those seeking open views.

From a driving point of view, it is an easy part, with a dirt road wide enough to allow two cars to pass without difficulty. Along the way, you enter the Marguareis Nature Park, a protected area with extraordinary biodiversity.

Towards the Don Barbera Refuge: challenging road and open landscapes[ back to menu ]

Starting at the Col de la Celle Vieille, the route changes dramatically. The road becomes narrower and more challenging, lacking protection in the valley and characterized by boulders that require more attention when driving. The landscape finally opens up, providing spectacular views of the mountains.

Alta Via del Sale near the Don Barbera refuge

This section, which extends from the Col de la Celle Vieille to the Framargal Pass (2189 meters) and up to the Colle dei Signori, requires more skill and more technical riding.

At the Colle dei Signori, there is a parking lot where a short stop can be made, and from here a descent leads to the Don Barbera Refuge, open from May to October. The refuge, strategically located, is an excellent resting place for travelers who wish to stop for food or overnight stay.

The French section: moonscapes and technical challenges[ back to menu ]

After passing the Colle dei Signori and the Don Barbera Refuge, you enter the French section of the Alta Via del Sale, which extends to the Boaria hairpin bend. This section is particularly spectacular and difficult, with an almost lunar landscape of unique karst formations.

It is here that I took the most beautiful photos of the entire route, thanks to the open scenery and the long stretch of road visible on the horizon. Although the road surface is tricky and requires a lot of attention, the charm and beauty of this part of the Salt Trail repays any effort.

Alta Via del Sale central part of the route

The hairpin bend and the Boaria Barracks: between history and breathtaking scenery [ back to menu ]

After crossing the French section of the Via del Sale, we return again to the French-Italian border, climbing the Col della Boaria, where we encounter the Caserma della Boaria barracks and the famous Tornante della Boaria. The barracks, an old military shelter probably dating back to the 1800s, is now in a state of ruin, with only a few remains visible. Despite its abandoned state, the structure tells a part of the region's military history.

The Boaria turnpike is one of the most photographed spots on the entire Alta Via del Sale, thanks to its scenic shape that offers extraordinary views of the surrounding mountains. It would be ideal for drone shots, but even with simple photos you can capture the beauty of the place.

The return: the last stretch of the Via del Sale[ back to menu ]

After the Boaria hairpin bend, the Via del Sale re-enters Italian territory for good and approaches its conclusion. The road becomes flatter, providing wonderful views of the Vermenagna Valley, with Limone Piemonte visible in the distance.

I recommend that you pay particular attention to the last downhill stretch to the Limone Piemonte entrance station, which is characterized by a steep gradient. I suggest you descend slowly, avoiding hard braking and using the engine brake to prevent falls.

Alta Via del Sale last stretch

The Central Forts of Tenda: a plunge into history[ back to menu ]

After completing the trail, I continued to the last point of interest: the Central Forts of Tenda. To reach the fort, it is necessary to walk a short distance, but the view in front is majestic.

The Central Fort, also known as Fort Colle Alto, was completed in 1880 and was a centerpiece of the Colle di Tenda defense system. Armed with cannons, mortars and machine guns, the fort housed about 300 men and included stables, storehouses and a cable car for supplies even in snowy conditions. Currently, access to the interior is not allowed as the entrance bridge has been destroyed; occasionally a wooden bridge is erected to allow a visit, but it was not present during my visit.

The return to Casanova Lerrone[ back to menu ]

After exploring the Central Fort, I returned to Limone Piemonte and from there, via state roads, returned to Casanova Lerrone. Retracing the Via del Sale on the way back would have taken too much time, preventing me from meeting the delivery time of the rental bike. This conclusion marks the end of a challenging but incredibly fascinating journey that remains an unforgettable experience for anyone with a passion for adventure and the discovery of unique historical and natural places.

Variants to the Salt Road: alternative explorations and adjacent routes[ back to menu ]

The Via del Sale offers numerous variants that unfold along its main route, allowing further exploration of the mountain landscapes between Liguria, Piedmont, and France. In fact, real branches of the Via del Sale are encountered along the route, descending on different slopes.

One of the most interesting variants is the Mediterranean Alps Cycle Route, which crosses the French territory offering a breathtaking route between hairpin bends and mountain landscapes. This route is particularly popular with cyclists for its beauty and technical challenge.

Equally fascinating is the Via del Duca, which descends to the Certosa di Pesio, near Chiusa Pesio, and combines history and nature along an evocative route.

Other noteworthy variants include the Limone-Ventimiglia and the Limone-Sanremo, which partly follow the Alta Via del Sale but extend to the Ligurian coast, offering the chance to combine the mountain and maritime experience. The Saracen Tour and the Pilgrim's Way on the other hand, wind along historic routes that retrace ancient routes used by merchants and wayfarers, enriching the experience with a truly unique cultural dimension.

 

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