Dianese Gulf Municipalities
Discovering the hamlets of Diano Marina
May 31, 2020
It may happen that even on a day at the end of May, with the high sun and the warm colours of spring, one looks for the tranquillity of the Ligurian hills. A few kilometers from our holiday apartments in Diano Marina, are the hamlets of the municipality: small villages with less than 200 inhabitants, almost hidden by centenary olive groves. Going there is a bit like suspending time, taking a break from worries to connect with a simple world.
You might think they are ghost towns, but no: the churches are often open, outside the houses it is easy to meet their inhabitants who greet you curious, ready to give you directions. Sure, they are quiet places, where you can rediscover a slow life. But that's what makes them special.
In this article we will take you on a journey to discover Diano Calderina, Borgo Murator, Diano Serreta and Diano Gorleri: the hamlets of Diano Marina.
Diano Calderina
The first inhabited area that you will meet after a series of hairpin bends, among a dense series of olive trees protected by bands, is Diano Calderina. Located about 2 km from Diano Marina and 70 meters above sea level, this village has just 62 inhabitants. On the right you will immediately find the parish church dedicated to San Giacomo (16th century). Initially you will barely see its simple white facade with lateral volutes, reminiscent of an ancient carabiniere's hat.
Behind it stands the bell tower painted in a beautiful red brick. To access the church, simply walk along a small cobbled alley and cross the main door, which is almost always open. The simple interior, with its ancient slate floor and a single nave, is more like a chapel. One of those places of sincere recollection, where devotion is manifested in silence.
This church must have enjoyed a certain prestige in the past, if inside there was a polyptych of 1514 and a canvas by Domenico Fiasella, today both preserved in the diocesan museum of Albenga. A curiosity: next to the church there is a rectory that can accommodate those who walk along the Via della costa, the route that continues to the west along the Santiago’s walk.
Borgo Muratori
Take the car back or, if you prefer, continue uphill, letting yourself be guided by the road. After a few more bends you will arrive in the narrow streets of Borgo Muratori. This hamlet is also a treasure of peace. Immersed among the terraces, you will lose count of the olive trees.
It is impossible not to peek through the courtyards of private houses, so close to the road. After all, they are so well cared for, with their plants on display, that they seem to be there on purpose to make even the public space more welcoming.
And then stop in front of the Oratory of San Biagio, located between the street and the garden of a private house. Opposite you will find a bench: take a few minutes to admire the stone façade of the small church. The silence of the valley could be interrupted just by the braying of a donkey, not far away.
Diano Serreta
Continuing our route, at 184 meters above sea level, we find Diano Serreta. Here you can park your car on the road, in front of a panoramic terrace from which you can admire the Gulf of Diano. On the right, protected by a high band of flowers and hedges, stands the church of S. Anna. Hidden by the foliage of an olive tree, you will meet it at the end of a steep (but short) cobblestone staircase. Once at the top the building will surprise you in all its elegance.
The old pink façade is defined by pilasters and other neoclassical elements that give it a sweet austerity. Here too, you will easily come across some private courtyards, which we can only admire for their beauty, and for the good fortune of being part of such an extraordinary landscape.
Diano Gorleri
Finally, our journey ends in Diano Gorleri. This is the hamlet of Diano Marina with the largest number of inhabitants: 172! Also here it is not difficult to meet people to ask for directions. Of course, getting lost in these villages is really difficult, but it can be a good opportunity to have a chat and discover something new.
As in all hilltop villages, the scenery is hidden behind a succession of overlapping layers. Emerging from afar is the white bell tower of the church of Saints Nicholas and Leonardo. As you get closer to the centre, however, its view is partially hidden by the houses and the ever-present olive trees.
To reach the small square of the church you have to walk to any of the caruggi on the left. Here you will find yourself in front of what was once the centre of village life. If you proceed towards the marble staircase of the church, it is likely that Prince, the guardian of the church of Diano Gorleri, will meet you. A cat a little unlucky but very, very affectionate.
Follow him among the pews (yes, he is allowed in!) and admire the baroque rejoicing in every corner of the nave. From the walls to the ceiling is a continuous wonder: paintings, stuccoes and trompe l’oeil.
Would you have expected such wealth in a hamlet of Diano Marina?
Listen to all podcasts published on our official channels:
